A Weekend in Zurich, Switzerland
Think Zurich is just an airport for ski getaways? Solely populated by bankers? We say it’s time to think again. There’s more to this Swiss city than cuckoo clocks, chocolate and cheese. Zurich is more than just the centre of the Swiss German community, it is also Switzerland’s largest city and home to almost half a million inhabitants. With a vibrant restaurant and bar scene, it is not a party town in the mould of Amsterdam or Berlin but it offers a sophisticated night life where top quality international restaurants sit comfortably alongside local Bierhalle.
Founded by the Romans as a tax collecting point for the local area, money and wealth has long been in the blood of the Zuercher. Located on the shores of lake Zurich, and within touching distance of the Alps, not only is it a geographically stunning, but the tax and finance wealth has made this city into a modern, majestic city. Long roads, large imposing mansions and trading houses, clean streets and the picturesque waterfront all give a strong sense of calm, safety and order. Indeed, Zurich is often ranked as one of the most liveable cities in the world, one of those rare places where the urban meets the rural. It also plays host to a world class selection of museums, architecture, bars and restaurants.
We’d recommend visitors start with a trip to the Kronenhalle. Probably Zurich’s most famous restaurant, this establishment has been welcoming the European great and good since 1928. In the 40’s a generous local resident began donating his art collection, allowing guests to sit beneath an original painting by Chagall or Miro, to name but two artists whose works grace the walls. Traditional cuisine and seasonal specialities abound, drawing ingredients from the lake and surrounding countryside. We won’t ruin the experience by telling you more of what to expect but if it was good enough for James Joyce, Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Federico Fellini, (to drop just a few famous names), we’re sure you will appreciate the tip.
For something completely different, head for the Oepfelchammer tavern in the old town. Here the adventurous can try the game of Balkenprobe. It may not be the running of the bulls, but you try and pull yourself onto a ceiling beam, cross over to the next beam then drink a glass of wine upside down… Not for the faint hearted!
Despite being a landlocked country, the Swiss really appreciate the water and Zurich really takes advantage of its river and lakeside location. The old town straddles the river down towards the quaibruecke with cobbled roads, numerous austere churches, impressive warehouses converted into glitzy offices and quaint little cafes. Gaze at Europe’s largest church clock face on St Peter’s and you will understand why this was the birthplace of Swiss Protestantism.
You are spoilt for cultural choices in Zurich too. The Swiss National Museum, the FIFA World Football Museum in their headquarters, the Reitberg, the Palaeontology Museum and the Museum of Art are all within walking distance of each other and offer something for almost everyone. The Kunsthaus Zurich has a great collection, including the largest number of works by Munch outside of Norway. This fantastic art museum displays largely Western works since the 1600s and has an especially impressive selection of modern art, well worth a visit for the art lover. If museums aren’t your thing though, you can enjoy the old botanical garden in the city, home to 15,000 species of plants and trees, a walk along the lake or a hike on one of the hills surrounding the city.
The Zurich film festival lasts for 11 days and has none of the glitz of Venice or Cannes but still brings in the stars. Zurich is also home to the Street Parade, a techno and dance festival that by 2002 was already attracting over 1 million ravers. The Zuerifaescht takes place every 3 years, (Covid notwithstanding), and brings music and fireworks to the old town, with up to 2 million visitors. Zurich isn’t cheap like Budapest, but nor is it expensive like Paris. Geographically it is in the heart of Europe, and the cost of living reflects its status as a provincial world city. It is a locals city, built and serviced for its inhabitants where tourists are welcomed with curiosity rather than with weariness, and we think that’s a real part of its charm.
For locals, the weekends are spent up in the mountains or along the lake. Drive, walk, bus or cycle along lake Zurich and you will be wowed by seemingly endless small hamlet towns and beautiful lake-side eateries. Probably Zurich’s best known lakeside restaurant is the Seehaus. Less than 15 minutes from the centre and located on the lake from where much of its produce is harvested, this is a popular eatery for locals and visitors alike. A destination in its own right, the Seehaus is often fully booked most days in the summer so make sure you call ahead. But any day, rain or shine, the combination of stunning scenery and fantastic food make it a must for all itineraries.
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